Block Pattern · Fitting · Pattern Master Boutique (PMB) · Sewing Notions

PMB Fitting Skirt Balanced

Here is the fitting skirt with the HBL (horizontal balance line) balanced.  I ended up with the following modifications:

  • Side Seam Move (ssm): 0
  • Center Front Waist Depth (CFWD): 1.5
  • Center Back Waist Depth (CBWD): -1.25
  • Side Seam Waist Depth (SSWD): 0.5

What this means is that my front waist is lower than the back waist.  compare_skirt06022017_2a

I still have fitting issues to resolve as you can see in the pictures below:

I fit this skirt by myself, and I tried many different ways.  I found that the easiest way to balance the skirt was to use a folding measuring stick (found at hardware store)and a hand mirror.  It is easy to make sure it is plumb, and it is light enough to hold comfortably behind you.  The white and black contrast makes reading the numbers easy. File Jun 02, 2 11 45 PM

I would like to hear other suggestions about how to fit garments on yourself by yourself in the comments. I am always looking for new ideas.

Sewing Notions

Erasable Fabric Pens

File May 18, 11 25 02 AM

These two fabric marking pens are the most commonly found pens at most fabric stores – Mark B Gone.  They both make marks that easily disappear with water from a squirt bottle.  I find using them frustrating because the  tip especially the one on the right is fat, and the one on the left, the thinner tip, doesn’t glide on all fabrics very well.  It doesn’t make a nice line, and sometimes the ink is delayed materializing on the fabric.

I have been working with the following alternatives for a number of years, and have not had any problems with them washing out of fabric:

File May 18, 11 25 29 AM

and they all come in an array of colors, so if you need to keep track of different notches or adjustments, a different color can be used.  They are not as easy to remove from fabric as the light blue marker.  The fabric will have to be submerged in water.  However, I think this inconvenience is worth it for the available colors, and the finer point. IMO. Stabilo, point 88Crayola Washable Markers, fine, and Ink Joy 300RT.

Disclaimer: Make sure you TEST the marker on a piece of fabric from your project, because you never know when there may be a problem washing the ink out.


Block Pattern · Fitting · Pattern Master Boutique (PMB)

PMB Tips for Fitting Skirt

While working on my block I have come up with a couple of tips that might be useful for you:

  1. The fabric should not have to be re-cut for each sloper modification. In general the width shouldn’t change. If your waist changes slide the pattern down on the fabric until you have enough width.
  2. Cut the pattern like a template. In other words cut the side seams off and the darts out, and cut at HBL.  Line the HBL on your pattern up with the HBL on your fabric, and for the vertical us the center front or center back. Now re -draw your pattern in a new color (gets messy) or use disappearing ink.
  3. Make one change at a time or things get too confusing.
  4. The camera method that is discussed in the program is very helpful, use it.
  5. Buy your muslin by the bolt from Dharma Trading.
Block Pattern · Fitting · Pattern Master Boutique (PMB)

First Look at PMB Fitting Skirt

Fresh off the printer.  The first skirt pattern generated by PMB.  I am impressed with the fit.  I see the following fitting problems:

  • In the photos of the back.  Wrinkles radiating from the hip to the butt.  I think this is being cause by, what I like to call waist puffs. I think the wrinkles are telling me there needs to be more fabric length to get over this bump.
  • In the side picture, the hip horizontal balance line (HBL) is not level front to back.  The HBL in the back looks like it is an inch higher than the front.  Also, indicating that more length is needed in the back length.
  • I am not sure what is going on in the front.  It could be that the back is causing the wrinkles in the front. I think the front feels loose.

The fix it plan:

  • Get the HBL level
  • If the hip wrinkles still exist after the HBL is level then I plan on using two darts to get more space in the hip/butt area.
  • Evaluate

I would like any comments, fitting is very difficult for me, so any advise is welcome.



Block Pattern · Pattern Master Boutique (PMB)

PMB Fitting Skirt

I followed all the wonderful detailed directions in PMB for entering measurements and printing out the fitting garments, or in my case skirt.  Here is a look at my final pattern next to my hand drafted skirt block (drafted from Aldrich) that I have been using for the last 5 years.

You might be able to see the green lines on the white paper PMB pattern.  That is the skirt block traced on to the pattern. Interesting! Can hardly wait to see the difference in fit.


Blog Goals

This year my resolution is to USE Pattern Master Boutique as much as possible for creating sewing patterns.  I have owned this software since version 4, I think.  I am not sure how many years this equates to.  But, it has taken too long for me to use it every time I want a new outfit.  I want to come into the 21st century with my pattern making skills! Plus, it is just cool to be able to put your measurements into a program that will generate a sewing pattern.

First, I thought it important to examine some of the reasons I have not used it in the past.  I came up with a few hurdles to over come:

  • I have been sewing with patterns (specifically Vogue) for the majority of my sewing life. I am used to looking at the pictures, and interpreting them.  That means I know how the drape of the fabric and the fit of the pattern will work with my body, and can imagine the finished product.
  • I have a hard time in the pattern editor.  I originally felt frustrated trying to edit patterns in the editor, but it has gotten better over the years. There are many video tutorials in the program now, and I have the book published by Wild Ginger: Digital Pattern Making.  I did all the exercises in the book which helped a lot.
  • The last hurdle is making the fitting garments, which I did about 4 years ago; I think. Ugh! I plan to use my self drafted blocks to help me make adjustments to the PMB fit garments, if need be.

The above points are goals I hope to master.  I have decided to start with the skirt first. Because this is the easiest garment in my opinion to fit.  The dress is too overwhelming.  Worrying about the top and the bottom at the same time.  Onward to the Fitting Skirt!